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Providing the right care!


Ferrets need more than just a cage.

They can be housed indoors and outdoors. They need a minimum of 6 hours outside of the cage. 

An indoor cage should be a minimum two story cage. Ideally if housed inside they would be housed in a spare room which is ferret proofed and they can have a lot of free roam time.

If housed outside, a two story hutch with a run can be used or a converted shed is suitable to. An outdoor enclosure should have an enclosed sleeping area, free from draft and rain. 

The enclosure should provide a range of enrichment for the ferrets e.g. tubes and suitable toys. ferrets should be able to perform a range of natural behaviours such as climbing, playing and stashing food.

Both indoor and outdoor enclosures should provide an area for toileting which is separate from the eating and drinking area. 

Food and water dishes should also be provided (water bottles are not recommended as a main source of water, as they can lead to dehydration and teeth breakage).

Within the cage, dust free shavings can be used on the bottom, along with fleece blankets in the sleeping area. We recommend using lino on the flooring of a hutch with shavings on top, to make cleaning easier. 


Ferrets are obligate carnivors!

This means they ONLY eat meat. they cannot digest fruit and vegetables. 

When feeding ferrets, a commercial ferret food can be given providing the protein is over 35% (A ferret food can be recommended to you).

Ferrets also thrive on a raw diet of 80/10/10; 80% muscle meat, 10% bone, 10% organs. If done correctly this can be the best diet for a ferret. 

They can also eat, mice, chicks and rats which can be brought under reptile food at your local pet store. A whole prey diet can also be given as a solo diet for them.

Ferrets cannot eat any other food such as dog food or rodent food. However, they can eat a high protein kitten food (one can be recommended) but NOT cat food as most cat food does not have a high enough protein percentage.

Fresh water in a bowl is always an essential. Bottles can cause dehydration as a ferret cannot get enough water out quick enough and they can also break their teeth due to this frustration. Water bottles can be given as a back up to any ferrets that like to splash in their bowls but not as a main water source. 


Ferrets should not be bathed unless physically dirty. Bathing ferrets can strip the natural oils from the skin and coat and cause dermatitis. This can cause excess scratching and fur loss which can be very uncomfortable for your ferret. 

If needing to bathe your ferret for any reason, an oat meal soak should be used. This is composed of a sock full of oats left to soak in a tub or bath of water. 

This should only be done when necessary and should not be a routine procedure for your ferrets.

for any information on bathing ferrets, please contact us via our contact us page!


Ferrets are prone to a range of illnesses and having a significant vet fund is a must.

Some common illness in ferrets are:


Adrenal disease ​



Jills are induced ovulators, meaning they will stay in season until brought out. This is either by a jill jab (Delvosterone), the implant (deslorelin) or by a vasectomised hob. More information on the impant and jill jab can be provided to you via our contact us section.

A Vasectomy is when a section of the sperm duct is removed in order for them to not impregnate a jill (this is a different procedure to castrating).

A jill in season, will display a swollen vulva and change in behaviour. These behaviours can be biting, pulling other ferrets around and stashing more often.

A jill in season can also develop hyperestrogenism if in prolonged oestrus. signs of this are:


​​​​​​Pale gums

Swollen vulva

Hair loss

Weight loss

Possibly vaginal discharge

​Neutering your jill will prevent them coming into season. This can be done after the females first season between 6months - 1 year. They will need to be brought out of season before neutering to prevent any further risks. It is advised to wait two weeks after bringing them out of season to spay them.

please speak to us about vasectomised hobs! We have some boys available for service. Use our contact us page to enquire.



We offer microchipping to anyone who needs it. We can microchip more than just ferrets to. We unfortunately can not microchip, dogs, horses, live stock, reptiles and birds. 

We can microchip; rabbits, ferrets, cats etc.

We are fully insured and we can come to you in the comfort of your own home. Alternatively you can come to us at the rescue.

We ask for a small fee for diesel when coming to you in your home.

prices for microchipping are:

£15 per animal and £5 for every additional animal e.g. 2 animals for £20


We offer nail clipping to any animal. We can also teach you how to nail clip yourself for a small fee. We are fully insured.


£5 -  standard nail clipping 

£10 - We can teach you how to clip nails


We are offering our services for our resident vasectomised hobs. They have served many jills successfully (bringing them out of season). 
£15 for the day (this can take up to several hours)
We do require you to bring your jills to us as we do not let our hobs leave the rescue

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